Although their popularity has been consistent, the handling of beef burgers -- from selecting the meat to shaping and cooking it -- certainly has not.

Not that long ago, people would order their beef burgers rare or medium. We now know that eating undercooked ground beef is not a safe thing to do.

The US Beef Information Center and other sources say that cooking time is only one of a range of issues to consider when preparing burgers for the barbecue.

The place to start, logically, is the meat. Ground beef is sold in four styles based on
fat content; extra lean (10 per cent fat or less), lean (up to 17 per cent), medium

(up to 23 per cent), and regular (up to 30 per cent). Older cookbooks advocate using regular ground beef, reasoning that a higher fat count is needed to create a rich, moist and juicy burger. With a focus on fat reduction these days, modern recipes call for lean and medium ground beef.

Indeed, these lower-fat options can yield juicy burgers if you follow a few rules. Rule No. 1 is to gently handle the meat. Quickly and lightly shape the meat into patties that are even in thickness and just hold together.

Be sure that your patties are not too thin, or they will quickly dry out, and not too thick, or they will scorch on the outside before they are cooked in the center Three quarters of an inch thick is what most recipes suggest. This will give them enough depth to retain the juices, yet not take forever to cook.

When cooking the burgers, don't use too low a heat. Medium-high, whether you're grilling or pan-frying, is recommended by most guides. This higher temperature will give the burger's exterior a nice sear, which helps lock in the juices. Once on the grill or in the pan, do not flatten the burger out, or you'll press those juices away. Sticking with this minimal handling, flip burgers only once during cooking.

Well done burgers are brown throughout and juices show no pink. How can you tell when the meat has reached that stage? The Beef Information Center and other food organizations suggest you invest in a quality, instant-read digital thermometer or thermometer fork. These devices show a temperature reading, not just a doneness range. They can also be used in all foods.

When checking the temperature of burgers do so within one minute of removal from the heat. Insert an instant-read thermometer stem or fork thermometer tines sideways into the center of patties. Leave thermometer in food for at least 30 seconds before reading temperature. Well done beef burgers should be 160 F or above. Always use hot soapy water to wash the tongs, plate and thermometer stem used in checking partially cooked meats before using again.

Now, to the final and most fun step in the burger building process: topping and sandwiching. No rules here, except for the use of a sturdy bun and a tasty imagination.

Mixture

Beef burgers can make quite a nutritious meal when lean ground beef, a good quality bun and light and delicious toppings -- such as tomatoes, lettuce and sliced onions -- are used. If you're a no-filler, burger purist, when making the patties you can simply go with the meat, salt and pepper. However, add a little egg and bread crumbs to help hold the burgers together until the very last bite.

1 lb. - lean or medium ground beef
pinch - salt and pepper
1 - egg, beaten
1/4 cup - breadcrumbs

In a large bowl gently combine all ingredients just until they begin to bind. Form into 4, 3/4-inch-thick patties. Grill or pan-fry burgers, lightly oil surface if not non-stick, over medium-high heat, turning once, about 5 minutes per side. Well done burgers are brown throughout and juices show no pink. When checking the burgers for doneness with an instant read meat thermometer, or thermometer fork, the temperature should register 160 F or above. Serve burgers on sturdy buns and top as desired.

Makes 4 burgers.

Note: This basic burger mixture can be flavored in a range of ways by adding vegetables such as finely chopped garlic, sweet peppers, onion, green onion or chives; fresh or dried herbs, such as basil, oregano, thyme or cilantro; or sauces, such as chili sauce, Worcestershire, ketchup or soy sauce. When adding liquid to the mix do not overdo it, or they will become overly moist, hard to shape and may stick to the grill.

Below are three ways to deliciously flavor and top the basic hamburgers noted above.

Mediterranean-Style Burgers: Flavor basic burger mixture with 1 Tbsp each of fresh chopped, or 1 tsp dried, mint and oregano; 2 chopped garlic cloves; and a pinch of crushed chili flakes. Cook as described above. When burgers are just about done top with a slice of provolone or mozzarella cheese and melt. Serve burgers on focaccia bread that's been spread with pesto. Top with roasted peppers, fresh basil leaves and sliced olives.

South of the Border Burgers: Flavor basic burger mixture with a finely chopped jalapeño pepper; 1/4 cup chopped cilantro; 1 tsp each ground cumin and chili powder; and 2 finely chopped garlic cloves. Cook as described above. When burgers are just about done top with a slice Monterey Jack cheese and melt. Set burgers on the bottom portion of a crusty bun that's been topped with shredded head lettuce. Top burgers with salsa and sliced avocados, and, if desired, a touch of sour cream. Set on top bun and serve.

Roasted Garlic Burgers with Organic Greens and Cambozola Cheese: In 375* F oven, roast 12, peeled, garlic cloves in a little olive until golden and tender. Cool and coarsely chop. Add the garlic and 2 tsp chopped, fresh rosemary to the basic ground beef mixture. Cook as described above. When burgers are just about done, top with a slice or two Cambozola cheese and melt. Set burgers on the bottom portion of a crusty bun that has been spread lightly with mayonnaise and topped with organic mixed salad greens. Top burgers with a few more greens and the other half bun, which can be spread lightly with mayonnaise.

This recipe comes from the recently published 10th anniversary edition of The Supper Book. Famed author Marion Cunningham says this recipe makes the world's best hamburger buns -- they stay together so the fillings aren't falling all over the place, and yet they are moist and tender. Wrapped carefully, these freeze well. Use them within two months.

11/2 cups - warm water
2/3 cup - instant non-fat dry milk
1/3 cup - lard or vegetable shortening
1 tsp - salt
2 tbsp - sugar
2 packages - dry yeast
1 - egg
5 1/2 cups - all-purpose flour

Put the water, dry milk, lard, salt and sugar in a mixing bowl and stir to blend. Sprinkle the yeast over the mixture, stir, then let stand to dissolve for a couple of minutes. Add the egg and 2 cups of the flour. Beat vigorously with whisk until thoroughly blended and smooth. Add enough of the remaining flour to make manageable dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for a minutes. Let rest 10 minutes. Add enough additional flour so that the dough is not sticky, and resume kneading until smooth and elastic. Place dough in a large greased bowl, cover, and let rise until it is double in bulk.

Grease some baking sheets or use nonstick sheets. Punch dough down and divide in half, then cut each half into 8 equal portions. Roll each piece between your palms into a smooth ball and place about 3 inches apart on the baking sheet. Pressing down with the palm of your hand, flatten each ball into a circle about 3 inches in diameter. Cover lightly and let rise for about 45 minutes, or until double in bulk.

Preheat the oven to 425* F. Bake the buns for 20-25 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove from the baking sheets and cool on racks.

Makes 16 hamburger buns.

Below are a few things to consider when buying, storing and handling ground beef.

- The majority of consumers select beef based on its bright red color However, variations in color can be due to many factors, including the type of packaging, and is not necessarily an indicator of freshness.

The best indicator of freshness in beef is the "packaged on" date or the "best before" date.

- On warm summer days, purchase the ground beef near the end of the shopping to ensure it stays as cold as possible. Wrap carefully and store in the coldest part of the fridge away from potentially dripping on any other foods. Use within 24 hours of purchase or freeze for up to two to three months. Thaw frozen ground beef or frozen pre-made patties overnight in the fridge, not on the counter at room temperature.

- Wash hands thoroughly before and after handling ground beef. Do the same with work surfaces and utensils that have come in contact with the meat.

Do not place cooked burgers on the same plate the raw burgers sat on.

- Cook ground beef to a safe internal temperatures of 71* C or above. Be especially careful if you're cooking for those at high risk of serious illness from foodborne bacteria -- infants/young children, pregnant women, the elderly or those with chronic illness. Using a food thermometer is a reliable way to test for safe internal temperatures.

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